Geoduck is a large clam with simple anatomy. There are two major parts to remember: the siphon or neck, which hangs out of the shell, and the mantle (also called breast), the meaty part that sits inside the shell. Native to the Pacific Northwest and Western Canadian coast, geoducks anchor themselves into the ground with a small “foot,” and remain in one spot for their entire lives. Several feet below ground, the massive saltwater clam sucks in seawater, filtering for plankton and precious vitamins, and squirts out the excess through its impressive siphon. Their necks easily stretch from banana to baseball lengths, depending on how comfortably situated they are (they’re happiest and longest when they’re underground).
Geoduck meat is sweet and clear in taste. Seattle-based chef Ethan Stowell features geoduck seasonally at Goldfinch and How to Cook a Wolf. “It’s definitely unique to the Northwest, and I think we should be proud of it,” Stowell says. “It’s a raw clam, and it’s as sweet as it gets for something that comes from the ocean.”
A delicate, crunchy texture distinguishes the geoducks from other mollusks too. “When it’s raw, it has that crunchy clam quality that I think is very unique to the geoduck,” Brandon Jew, San Francisco-based chef and owner of Master Jiu’s, says. “Because of how dense the trunk is, when you cut it very thin on the bias, you get a specific kind of snap when you bite into it.”
Harvesting geoducks is a meticulous process that requires skilled divers and specialized equipment. Before any harvesting can take place, all divers must have the appropriate licenses and permits issued by the government. These licenses regulate the number of geoducks that can be harvested, the size limits, and the areas where harvesting is allowed.
Geoducks are typically found in sandy or muddy substrates in the intertidal zone or subtidal areas. Once a geoduck is located, the diver uses a high-pressure water jet to loosen the sand or mud surrounding the clam. The divers carefully dig around the geoduck’s neck using a small shovel or their hands. Care is taken to avoid damaging the clam or its siphon. After the geoduck is exposed, the diver will slowly and gently pull the clam out of the substrate.
Once it is retrieved, it is placed in a mesh bag, which is sealed to prevent escape. After they are harvested, they are transported to processing facilities where they are cleaned, graded, and prepared for market.
Underwater harvesters follow strict regulations and sustainable practices to ensure the long-term viability of geoduck populations. The Underwater Harvesters Association in British Columbia works closely with government agencies and scientists to ensure responsible harvesting practices and the conservation of this valuable resource.
